Hawkcraig Climbing (June 2021)

Sunday 27 June 2021

After a brief cold snap the forecast was looking great for Sunday, so I suggested we go out and see if any of us can remember how to ‘trad’ climb (trad climbing is placing your own protection on the way up, rather than using pre-bolted routes). I thought one or two people might be keen… In the end there were eight of us, just short of needing to make it an official club meet!

After some debate over nesting seabirds, we decided to head down to Hawkcraig crag at Aberdour, a friendly, small sea-cliff on the north side of the Firth of Forth.

Gaëlle volunteered to climb with me, hoping to learn what this trad climbing malarkey was all about. I needed to re-find my trad-leading mojo. I’m not the most confident of leaders at the best of times and, after a year or more’s Covid enforced absence from the crags, I needed to start easy. Quite pleased that I eventually managed a couple of VDiffs, even feeling quite confident on the 2nd one! Thanks to Gaëlle for her patience belaying.

Meanwhile, Ian and Paul were racing ahead, ticking off four routes I think, whilst we did two. Ian finished his day off in fine style with a lead of Pain Pillar, the crag VS classic, kudos.

Sandy and Rosie’s definition of climbing seems to be sun-bathing, drinking wine and working their way through the most ginormous packed lunch I’ve seen in a while 🙂 But, hey, it turned out to it was Rosie’s birthday; a girl’s gotta enjoy herself. Happy Birthday Rosie!

Not quite sure which routes Richard and Hedda did to start with but, as the tide came in, they set up a top-rope on the corner next to Fishhead Arete and persuaded Rosie and Sandy that actually climbing this would be the icing on the cake of their climbing day out.

The day finished with Gaëlle having her first go at lead climbing. She cruised up it, placing very good gear and smiling all the way.

All in all a fantastic club climbing day out 🙂

  • Report by Dave